With a goal of splitting our time between marine and terrestrial diversity, we headed inland from Bunaken to the forests of Tangkoko National Park (famous for Celebes crested macaques and spectral tarsiers). We stayed in a simple homestay close to the park entrance and watched hopeful street dogs and locals passing their time. Guides are required to enter the park, and ours happened to be remarkably unenthusiastic, but nevertheless was exceptional at spotting birds, mammals a