We arrived in north Sulawesi, Indonesia, two hours late, in the dark, and in the pouring rain. Frenetic, lawless traffic shot past our rain-soaked windshield on the half-hour ride to downtown Manado - renegade scooters zipped into and out of our feeble headlight gleam. After dropping our bags at the hotel, we realized we were at that worst point in travel - in an unfamiliar city, in an unfamiliar country, at midnight, sweaty, tired, and starving hungry. All came together, tho